An analytic model for the prediction of wave setup logshore currents and sediment transport on beaches with seawalls

摘要

An analytic model is developed to predict the time- and depth-averaged cross-shore and longshore hydrodynamics as well as the lonshore sediment transport on a planar beach backed by a seawall. Similar to the classical no seawall derivations of the problem, the model assumes shallow water, small angle of wave incidence, and spilling breakers. The reflected wave energy flux is conserved while the increased energy in the surf zone due to the reflected wave is assumed to be dissipated in the incident wave.