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NEAR-BOTTOM WATER MOTION UNDER OCEAN WAVES

机译:海洋波浪作用下的近水运动

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A two-year ocean experiment involving wave-induced forces on a test pipe mounted on the sea floor [Grace and Nicinski (1976)] involved the measurement of various quantities other than the pipe forces per se. A pair of these involved surface wave characteristics and wave-induced water motion at the level of the pipe centerline but off to one end of the pipe. These wave-kinematics data have been combined, and the results of this work make up this paper in which the emphasis is on the deterministic approach to data interpretation. Presented are comparisons of the velocity and acceleration data with the predictions of Airy and stream function theories plus discussion of the dispersion of the field data. The primary intent of the paper is to suggest to designers of bottom-laid structures, such as pipes, how values of the peak velocity and maximum acceleration of the water motion associated with a non-breaking design wave of specified characteristics can be chosen.
机译:一项为期两年的海洋实验涉及在安装在海底的测试管上的波浪感应力[Grace and Nicinski(1976)],涉及测量的不是管本身的力。其中一对涉及表面波特性和在管道中心线处但在管道的一端处的波浪感应水运动。这些波浪运动学数据已被合并,这项工作的结果构成了本文,其中重点是确定性方法进行数据解释。提出的是对速度和加速度数据与艾里和流函数理论的预测的比较,以及对现场数据离散度的讨论。本文的主要目的是向诸如管道之类的底部结构的设计人员建议,如何选择与特定特性的不间断设计波相关的峰值速度和水运动的最大加速度的值。

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