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首页> 外文期刊>Proceedings of the International Conference on Coastal Engineering >SMALL-SCALE MORPHOLOGY RELATED TO WAVE AND CURRENT PARAMETERS OVER A BARRED BEACH
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SMALL-SCALE MORPHOLOGY RELATED TO WAVE AND CURRENT PARAMETERS OVER A BARRED BEACH

机译:与禁止海滩上的波和当前参数有关的小尺寸形态

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Small-scale morphology ( 5 m horizontal wavelength) was measured by combining CRAB surveys with bed elevations acquired from a 1 MHZ sonic altimeter mounted on the CRAB during the DUCK94 experiment in October 1994. Bedform plan views were recorded simultaneously using a 500 KHz side-scan sonar mounted on the CRAB. Waves and currents were measured at the same time. Three cases are examined in detail: mild waves and weak longshore currents resulting in wave ripples throughout the study area; narrow-band, normally incident waves with a strong rip current resulting in a planar bed except in the throat of the rip where megaripples were measured; and storm waves with strong longshore currents resulting in lunate and straight-crested mega-ripples in the trough of the barred beach. During these strong current days, bed shear stresses calculated from logarithmic velocity profiles are equated to a quadratic bottom shear stress formulation. The associated bed shear stress coefficients vary by more than an order of magnitude across the surf zone (0.0006- 0.012). Bottom roughness was obtained by calculating the wavenumber spectra of the bed. The bed shear stress coefficients are positively correlated with bottom roughness (linear correlation coefficient, 0.68). A higher linear correlation coefficient (0.80) is obtained by subtracting skin friction from the total bed shear stress.
机译:通过将CRAB测量结果与1994年10月在DUCK94实验期间安装在CRAB上的1 MHZ声波高度计获得的床高程结合起来,测量了小规模形态(水平波长<5 m)。同时使用500 KHz侧边记录了床形平面图扫描声纳安装在CRAB上。同时测量波和电流。详细检查了三种情况:轻微的波浪和弱的近岸海流导致整个研究区域的波浪纹波;窄带,垂直入射波,具有强烈的裂隙电流,导致平坦的床层,除了在裂隙的喉咙中测量了巨大的波纹;以及强烈的近岸海流造成的风暴波,在禁止的海滩的低谷中形成了月牙形且直顶状的巨型波纹。在这些强劲的日子里,根据对数速度曲线计算得出的床层剪应力等于二次方底部剪应力公式。整个海浪区的相关床层剪应力系数变化幅度大于一个数量级(0.0006- 0.012)。通过计算床的波数谱获得底部粗糙度。地层剪切应力系数与底部粗糙度呈正相关(线性相关系数,0.68)。通过从总床剪应力中减去皮肤摩擦,可获得较高的线性相关系数(0.80)。

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