LENGTHS OF RUNS OF JUST BREAKING AND BROKEN WAVES IN IRREGULAR WAVE TRAIN ON GENTLE SLOPES

摘要

This paper is aimed to investigate theoretically and experimentally the variations of the probability distribution and mean values of the run length and total run length of just breaking and broken waves in an irregular wave train on gentle slopes. The theoretical model developed here is shown to be valid for evaluating the lengths of runs of just and broken waves from deep water up to the shoreline.