Wave Prediction Model To Study On The Wave Height Variation In Terengganu Coast Of Malaysia

摘要

Abstract: In this study, the significant wave height at the Terengganu and the change of wave height at Kuala Terengganu to Merang shoreline were simulated by using the 2D Near-Shore Wave (2D NSW) model. The significant wave height by the 2D NSW model at Kuala Terengganu to Merang shoreline from 2008-2012 were simulated. The model was forced by ECMWF (European Centre for Medium Range Weather Forecast) data. The simulated significant wave height by the 2D NSW model at Airport Kuala Terengganu (AWAC station) was compared with the observed significant wave height. The mean annual significant wave height indicate the higher wave height with average mean value in a range of 1.08-1.10 m in Kuala Terengganu to Batu Rakit area and lower in Merang area with average mean value in a range of 0.74 m. The detailed 5 years simulation period demonstrates that the strong variability of wave height exists during North-East monsoon. The findings of this study could be useful for the erosive calculation, shoreline protection and coastal zone management activities.