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How kilometric sandy shoreline undulations correlate with wave and morphology characteristics: preliminary analysis on the Atlantic coast of Africa

机译:公里沙质海岸线起伏如何与波浪和形态特征相关:非洲大西洋沿岸的初步分析

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Sandy coasts are characterized by a number of rhythmic patterns like,amongst others, shoreline undulations or sandwaves at a kilometric scale.One hypothesis for their formation is that high angle waves (large incidenceangle with respect to shore normal) could induce an instability of theshoreline (Ashton et al., 2001). More recently, a scaling for theirwavelength has also been proposed (van den Berg et al., 2014). Theexisting studies rely mainly on modelling but quantitative field tests arelacking. We aim at investigating how both the formation hypothesis of theseshoreline undulations and the theoretical scaling do fit with nature at aglobal scale. The first step, which is the goal of this paper, is to set upthe methodology by analyzing the Atlantic African coast as test site. First,based on global databases, shoreline wavelength LS, wave characteristics(obliquity θW and wavelength λW) and mean shoreface slope &beta are determined. Thenthe wave obliquity is confronted with the presence of shorelineundulations. Finally the values of the ratio beta; LS / λW areestimated and discussed in comparison with the estimate ofvan den Berg et al. (2014). It is found that the correlation betweenshoreline sandwave occurrence and wave obliquity isvery good, allowing the identification of 5 new potential unstableshoreline stretches, whereas the results on the scalingare not conclusive and deserve further investigations.
机译:沙质海岸的特征是有许多节律性模式,例如海岸线上的起伏或沙波。其形成的一个假设是高角度波(相对于海岸法线的大入射角)可能引起海岸线的不稳定性( Ashton等,2001)。最近,也有人提出了对其波长的缩放(van den Berg等,2014)。现有的研究主要依靠建模,但是缺乏定量的现场测试。我们旨在研究这些海岸线波动的形成假说和理论尺度在全球尺度上如何与自然相吻合。第一步是本文的目标,是通过分析大西洋非洲海岸作为测试地点来建立方法。首先,基于全球数据库,海岸线波长 L S ,波浪特征(倾角θ W 和波长λ< sub> W )和平均海岸坡度&beta被确定。然后,波浪倾角面临海岸线波动的存在。最后是比值β;估计和讨论了 L S W ,并与van den Berg等人的估计进行了比较。 (2014)。研究发现,海岸线砂波发生与波浪倾角之间的相关性非常好,可以识别出5个新的潜在不稳定海岸线延伸,而结垢的结果尚无定论,值得进一步研究。

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