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WAVE GROUP FORCING OF LOW FREQUENCY SURF ZONE MOTION

机译:低频冲浪区运动的波群强迫

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摘要

The nearshore potential vorticity balance of Bowen and Holman (1989) is expanded to include the forcing from wave group-induced radiation stresses. Model results suggest that the forcing from these radiation stresses can drive oscillations in the longshore current that have a spatial structure similar to linear shear instabilities of the longshore current. In addition, the forced response is nearly resonant when the forcing has scales (k, σ) similar to the linearly most unstable mode. Thus, we suggest that wave groups may provide an initial perturbation necessary for the generation of shear instabilities of longshore currents and also act as a source of vortical motions on beashes where linear instabilities are completely damped. Data from the SUPERDUCK (1986) field experiment were analyzed for the presence of spatially coherent wave groups. The analysis confirms that wave groups with periods and longshore spatial structures comparable to the observed shear wave motions were sometimes present on this open coast. This indicates that wave groups with the required spatial and temporal structure to initiate the low frequency oscillations in the longshore current can exist.
机译:Bowen和Holman(1989)的近岸潜在涡度平衡被扩展到包括由波群引起的辐射应力的强迫。模型结果表明,来自这些辐射应力的强迫可以驱动长海岸电流的振荡,该振荡的空间结构类似于长海岸电流的线性剪切不稳定性。此外,当强迫具有类似于线性最不稳定模式的标度(k,σ)时,强迫响应几乎会共振。因此,我们建议波群可能会为产生近岸洋流的剪切不稳定性提供必要的初始扰动,并且还可以作为完全抑制线性不稳定性的带状带旋转运动的来源。分析了SUPERDUCK(1986)野外实验的数据是否存在空间相干波群。分析证实,在这个开阔的海岸上有时会出现具有与观测到的剪切波运动相当的周期和长海岸空间结构的波群。这表明可以存在具有所需空间和时间结构的波群,以在长岸海流中引发低频振荡。

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