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Numericla study of low frequency surf zone motions

机译:低频冲浪区运动的数值研究

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This paper describes the applications of a model of the two dimensional shallow water equations to the growth of instabilities of the longshore current at SUPERDUCK on October 18th.Simulations are crried out suing two initial current profiles.in the first case the initial longshore current profile results from a balance between bottom friction,the radiation stress gradient and lateral mixing due to turbulence.In the secondf case lateral mixing is neglectede.the shear wave climates resulting from boht simulations are anlayzed and ocmpared to data.In the first case the energy in the shear wave band is udnerpredictd wheras in the second case,it is overpredicted.In both cases,the initial longshore current profile changes due to lateral mixing induced by the shear instabiliteis.The resulting lonshore current profile after shear instabiliteis have reached finite amplitude is found to b4e very similar for both cases.
机译:本文描述了二维浅水方程组模型在10月18日SUPERDUCK沿岸海流不稳定性的增长中的应用,并通过两个初始流向进行了模拟,第一种情况是初始沿岸流向的结果由底部摩擦,辐射应力梯度和湍流引起的侧向混合之间的平衡所致。在第二种情况下,忽略了侧向混合。通过模拟计算得出的剪切波气候被分析并与数据相比。在第二种情况下,剪切波带是不可预测的,而在这两种情况下,由于剪切不稳定性引起的横向混合,初始长岸电流剖面发生了变化。发现剪切不稳定性达到有限振幅后所产生的lonshore电流剖面两种情况下的b4e非常相似。

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