LONG WAVES AND THE CHANGE IN CROSS-SHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT RATES ON A SHEET FLOW DOMINATED BEACH

摘要

In this paper, at first results of experiments in sheet flow conditions under nonlinear asymmetric irregular oscillations with an without long wave components are presented and a method for estimating the net transport rates is proposed. Then the importance of phase lag between free long waves and irregular short waves as well as the effect of steady currents on the magnitude of transport rate are discussed.