CALCULATIONS OF WAVE BREAKING PROBABILITY AND DISTRIBUTION OF BREAKING WAVE HEIGHTS IN DEEP WATER

摘要

This practical method for calculating the probability of a wave breaking and the distribution of breaking wave heights is based on the joint probability distribution of wave heights and periods derived by Sun Fu and the breaking criterion obtained byOchi and Tsai from measurements of irregular waves generated in a tank. Computations for different sea states using the P-M spectrum and the JONSWAP spectrum showed that the probability of wave breaking (or the distribution of breaking wave heights) in the deep ocean can be determined, at least approximated, from the zero, the first and the second moments of the wave spectrum.