A chef and a restaurateur are different jobs: One is about pleasing people with what's on the plate; the other is about understanding the market. I'm a chef, but I think I'm a savvy businessperson, too. The toughest decision is always whether to open a restaurant. Two or three bad months, and you could be out of business. We have 28 restaurants around the world, and over the years we've killed six. Usually, the license runs out, but sometimes it's the concept. The hardest close was probably V Steak-house, which I opened at die Time Warner Center in Manhattan in 2004.
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