NOT ENOUGH COOKS

摘要

Joe Kindred's cooking career has taken him through top kitchens in San Francisco and Chicago, but when he decided to open a place of his own, the chef passed up big-city fame to return to his sleepy hometown of Davidson, N.C., a suburb of Charlotte. His restaurant, called Kindred, has become a critical darling (one of the best new restaurants in the U.S. this year, according to Bon Appetit) and an instant local hit. As much as that success draws from the restaurant's stunning historical location and its use of local ingredients, Kindred says, it really comes down to the quality of the kitchen staff-and his ability to hang on to them.