天然植物染料橘子皮对丝绸染色性能的研究

摘要

采用天然橘子皮染料直接对丝绸织物染色,通过正交试验及单因素试验分析讨论了染色温度、染色时间、浴比对染色织物上染率的影响,比较了预媒染、同浴媒染、后媒染3种染色方式,测试了织物的耐皂洗色牢度。结果表明,橘子皮染料直接染丝绸的优化工艺为：染色温度60℃,染色时间40 min,浴比1∶60,媒染方式以后媒染为最佳。橘子皮染料染色织物的耐皂洗色牢度符合国家优级品标准。%Silk fabric was dyed directly by natural dye of tangerine peel. The influences of dyeing tempera-ture, dyeing time and liquor ratio on dye-uptake was discussed by orthogonal experiments and single factor analysis. Three different dyeing methods, pre-mordant, meta-mordant and post-mordant dyeing were com-pared. The colorfastness to washing of silk fabric was tested. The optimized technological conditions were post-mordant dyeing, 1∶60 of liquor ratio, and dyed at 60 ℃ for 40 min. Furthermore, the colorfastness to washing of dyed silk fabric with tangerine peel dye met the demand of national excel ent grade goods.