Pleat element is an important source of inspiration for garment designing. Analyzing the development and shaping technique of pleat elements has great significance for understanding the essence of pleat elements. The article divides the development of pleat elements in the garment cultural history into three periods-the liberalization age in ancient Greece and Rome, homogenization period around 19th and early 20th centuries, and the present pluralization era, analyzing the characteristics and shaping methods of pleat elements in each period. The operation steps for pleats fit for garments with different styles popular today are described, and precautions for making pleats are discussed, such as pleating quantity, selection of pleat position line, fabric performance and direction of fiber skein, and the spatial integrity of clothes to armhole curve.%褶纹元素是服装设计重要的灵感来源.分析褶纹元素的发展演变和构成技术对认识褶纹元素的本质具有重要意义.按照褶纹元素在衣文化史上的演变,将其划分为古希腊古罗马的自由化时期、十九世纪和二十世纪初期的均齐化时期、当今的多元化时期,分析每一时期褶纹元素的特点和构成方式.运用立体构成方法分析当今常见的不同类型衣身褶纹操作步骤,提出在衣身褶纹立体构成过程中要注意褶量构成的分析、起始位置的选择、面料性能与丝绺方向、整体平衡与袖窿松量等操作要领.
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