Certain degree changes will occur in the surface morphology,internal structure,and other physicochemical properties of keratin fibers such as human hair and wool fibers during slenderizing treatment.This paper systematically studied the human hair scale layer integrity after slenderizing treatment and the retraction state of the scale layers of the hairs that had not been subjected to settingrelaxation treatment after slenderizing by means of Herbig reaction,compared the effect of different treatment conditions on the modification of human hair scale layer,and explored the mechanism by which the human hair slenderizes.The results showed that the degree of modification of human hair scale layer varies with process conditions; greater modification is observed after stretching-setting treatment; and only stretching without setting results in irreversible change of fiber scale layers.The reaction of cuticular layer of scales to stretching-setting treatment differs greatly from that of the scales layer below the surface.%人发等角蛋白纤维在拉伸细化过程中,其表面形态、内部结构以及理化性能均会发生一定程度的变化.通过溴阿尔瓦登(Herbig)反应现象,系统研究了人发纤维鳞片层经拉伸细化处理后的完整性和未经定形回缩处理纤维鳞片层的回复状态,比较了不同处理条件对人发鳞片层改性作用的差异,进一步探讨人发拉伸细化改性的机制.结果表明:随处理条件不同,人发鳞片表层的改性程度也不同;拉伸定形后,鳞片层改性程度更大;拉伸不定形而回缩处理后纤维的鳞片层会发生不可逆的变化,鳞片表层和鳞片外层对拉伸定形处理的反应情况大不相同.
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