To solve the problem of serious weft oblique phenomenon of knitted fabric,using the hemp/ cotton (30/70) as raw material,two kinds of new spinning methods,compact Siro false twist spinning and compact sirospun,were introduced to produce the 15 tex yarn.Using visual analysis method and independent samples T test of the SPSS software,the significance analysis was carried out to compare the yarn twist,wet snarling number,yarn hairiness,yarn strength and other performances of the different kinds of modified yarn.The result shows if yarn count and twist factor of the two different types of yarns are the same,the compact Siro false twist spinning can produce smoothly,but the compact sirospun has higher breakage due to its low strength.Based on normal production,compared with compact sirospun,compact Siro false twist spinning shows significantly better performances in yarn twist,wet snarling number,yarn strength,harmful yarn hairiness number above 3 mm,yarn evenness.Even when the the designed twist factor is reduced by about 16％,the spinning process can also work well.What's more,the wet snarling number is reduced by about 33％,the number of hairiness over 3 mm is reduced by about 90％,yarn evenness CV value is reduced by about 4.3％.However,the two spinning methods do not have significant difference in thick knots,the details,and cotton knots.Therefore,the weft skew phenomenon of knitted fabric made of compact Siro false twist spinning is improved obviously.%为解决针织物在穿着过程中纬斜严重的问题,以大麻/棉(30/70)纱线为原料,分别采用集聚赛络假捻纺和集聚赛络纺生产15 rex细纱,并对成纱的捻度、湿扭结数、毛羽、强度等性能进行了显著性分析.结果表明:线密度、捻度均相同时,集聚赛络假捻纺可顺利纺纱,但集聚赛络纺因强度低使断头率偏高;集聚赛络假捻纱的捻度、湿扭结数、断裂强度、3 mm以上的有害毛羽数、条干均匀性均显著优于集聚赛络纱,线密度相同时,集聚赛络假捻纱的设计捻度可降低16％,且成纱湿扭结数降低约33％,3 mm以上的有害毛羽数降低约90％,条干CV值降低约4.3％,而二者在粗节、细节、棉结方面均无显著差异,因此,由集聚赛络假捻纱为原料制成的针织物纬斜现象得到明显改善.
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