In order to study the structure and quality of different bamboo coats and summarize the specifications and special skills, comparative study on different shapes and braid process features of bamboo coats was carried out. The study was based on 15 different sample bamboo coats and vests, which were preserved by domestic and abroad museums and private collectors such as the folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University. These samples were dated from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. Moreover, the details, compositions, similarities and differences of bamboo coats were deeply discussed. Furthermore, based on the special structure, braid organization and performance of bamboo coats, the three-dimensional structures, process skills and structural parameters of different parts of bamboo coats were analyzed. The results show that the bamboo beads installed-piping design of the bamboo coat is derived from the treasure of the material, which is found by the simulation of the overall shape of bamboo coats by the two-dimensional plane structure; and differences of selected samples exist due to the variation of the wearers′gender, figure and stature.%为归纳不同竹衣品质与构造特点,总结其构成规格与特殊技法,以江南大学民间服饰传习馆、国内外博物馆以及私人收藏的15件清代至民国时期竹衣实物为基础,通过对不同竹衣形制及其编制工艺进行对比研究,深入探析不同竹衣样品的外观细节和组织规格的异同点.基于竹衣特殊的构成、编结构形以及服用性能,阐释并分析竹衣制品中不同部位的立体结构,构制技巧与结构参数.结果表明,通过二维平面结构图对竹衣制品整体形貌的模拟发现竹衣构制过程中的局部滚边嵌竹珠设计,该现象源于制作者对于物料的珍惜、节省;研究所选取的15件竹衣制品在编制工艺、闭合形式与下摆形态上存在差异性,其差异程度主要是由制作年代、服用者的性别、体态、身形所导致.
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