仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价

摘要

In order to obtain a new denim fabric with advantages of both knitted denim fabric and woven denim fabric, the development of fake knitted denim fabric was discussed from the aspects of yarn selection, weaving and finishing, and the relevant mechanical indexes of fake knitted denim fabric, knitted denim fabric and cotton woven denim fabric were compared. Furthermore, the Kawabata evaluation system was employed to synthetically analyze mechanical properties including tensile, shear, bending,compression and friction of these fabrics. The results show that the fake knitted denim fabric which uses pure cotton combed yarn and polyester filament spandex core spun yarn as warp and weft yarn,with composite right-hand twill weave,has warp tensile strength of 685 N and tear strength of 59 N after special finishing. The fake knitted denim fabric overcomes the disadvantages of both weaving denim fabric and knitted denim fabric. The fabric is stiff, smooth and soft, and also has elasticity and shape-retention in handle.%为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发.对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5项指标进行织物风格综合分析.结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷.