苏木天然染料染色柞蚕丝织物的色光稳定性研究

摘要

对苏木天然染料染色柞蚕丝织物的色光稳定性进行了研究.采用不同pH值的水溶液、氧漂液、高温加热和光照来处理染色后的柞蚕丝织物,通过测试织物的色度指标值(L*、a*、b*、c*值及K/S值)和染色牢度来探讨染色织物的色光稳定性.研究结果表明:pH值对苏木染色蚕丝织物的色光影响最大；过氧化氢漂白液会使织物褪色,铁媒染色织物虽然褪色较轻,但有明显的色调变化；光照使被染丝织物的色调发生改变,饱和度与鲜艳度降低；温度对色光稳定性的影响最小.媒染剂及其种类会影响被染丝织物的颜色和颜色稳定性.%This paper studies the chromatic light stability of tussah silk fabrics dyed with natural dye sappanwood, treats tussah silk fabrics after dyeing with aqueous solutions of different pH values, oxygen bleaching liquor, high-temperature heating and illumination and discusses the chromatic light stability of dyed fabrics by testing index values of chroma (L* , a* , b* , c* and K/S) and color fastness of fabrics. The research result shows that pH value has the greatest influence on chromatic light of tussah silk fabrics dyed with sappanwood; hydrogen peroxide bleaching solution fades fabrics; iron mordant dyeing fabrics have an obvious tonal variation though the fading is light; illumination makes the tone of dyed silk fabrics change and reduces the saturation and vibrance; and temperature has the minimum influence on chromatic light stability. Mordant and its type influence the color and color stability of dyed silk fabrics.