新疆维吾尔族艾德莱斯起源的再研究

摘要

当前关于新疆维吾尔族艾德莱斯起源的研究陷入到复杂化的循环论证过程中,为了追求名考源和工艺考源的互证,使研究越深入问题暴露得越多.文章通过词义研究、文献考察、实地考察,认为艾德莱斯名考源与工艺考源是可以适当地分开研究,将问题简单化.新疆"艾德莱斯"一词在11世纪或12世纪被引入,其工艺一直没有在本地发展起来,这与维吾尔族的织物消费习惯和当地气候密切相关.直到20世纪初"艾德莱斯"一词才与新疆维吾尔族扎经染色工艺联系起来,这与新疆近代贸易的发展有关.艾德莱斯成为维吾尔族女性服饰标志则与新中国成立后其现代化生产有关.%So far, researches on the origin of Aidelaisi of Xinjiang Uygur have become an endless loop, and the attempt for mutual demonstration of verification of name origin and verification of process origin exposes more and more problems as researches deepen.In this paper, it is found through lexical meaning research, literature research and field investigation that verification of name origin and verification of process origin of Aidelaisi can be researched respectively for purpose of simplification.The word of Aidelaisi was introduced into Xinjiang in the 11th or 12th century, but the related technology was not developed there at the same time, which had something to do with the fabric consumption habit of Uygur and local climate in Xinjiang.The word of "Aidelaisi" had been independent from the dying technology of Uygur until the earth 20th century, which was owed to the trade development of Xinjiang in modern times.That Aidelaisi became the mark of women garment of Uygur should be owed to its modernized production after the founding of the People`s Republic of China.