THE PULSATIONAL EFFECTS OF LITTORAL DRIFT AND ITS ENGINEERING CONSEQUENCES

摘要

＜正＞ It has long been assumed, and is even today by many, that sediment movement along the coast produced by wave action is uniform, even more so than along river channels. It will be shown that this can be far from the truth due to the interaction of storm and swell waves in their consecutive action on beach material. The hypotheses proposed have not yet been verified because measurements must be made in quick succession after a storm. However, plain observation of swift siliation and formation of sand spits and bars should make us wary of explanations which do not take such fluctuations into account. Inspite the pleth（?）a of f（?）mulae for littoral drift none can be applied with confidence outside the region from whence they were derived.