面部敏感性皮肤化妆品适用性评价方法研究

摘要

目的 以主客观结合的方法对面部敏感性皮肤单次和长期使用化妆品的安全性和功效性进行研究,初步建立面部敏感性皮肤化妆品适用性评价方法.方法 以66例乳酸刺痛试验阳性者为研究对象,分别进行2种敏感性皮肤用面霜的单次使用感觉试验和4周使用试验,于产品使用前、使用后2周和4周进行临床评估、仪器测试和乳酸感觉测试.结果 单次使用面霜①在各时点的面部感觉与阴性对照差异无统计学意义,面霜②在使用5 min和10 min的瘙痒、刺痛和总感觉评分均显著高于阴性对照.累积使用面霜①4周后皮肤鳞屑显著低于基础值.使用面霜①2周、4周后,使用面霜②4周后,面部皮肤经表皮失水率和血流速度均显著降低;使用两种面霜2周和4周后皮肤角质层含水量均显著升高,30％以上受试者的神经敏感性有所改善.使用2种面霜4周后的乳酸测试总感觉评分及使用面霜①4周后的刺痛感觉评分均显著降低.结论 综合单次使用感觉试验、长期使用试验结合客观检测及乳酸感觉试验来测试皮肤感觉、反应、耐受性及生理状况的方法可较为全面、科学地评价面部敏感性皮肤化妆品的适用性.%Objective In order to study the safety and efficacy of single and long-term use of products for facial sensitive skin using the combined objective and subjective methods,and to preliminarily establish the evaluation methods for the applicability of facial sensitive skin cosmetics.Methods Sixty-six lactic acid sting test positive subjects were included in the study,and they were divided into two groups using two different sensitive skin facial creams.Single use sensory test was performed,and followed by four weeks use test with clinical evaluation,instrumental test and lactic sting test at baseline,two weeks and four weeks after using the products.Results There's no significant difference between facial cream ① and negative control at any time points under the single use sensory test.The score for itching,stinging and total sensory of facial cream ② after using for five minutes and 10 minutes were all significantly higher than negative control.After four weeks of using facial cream ①,the skin scales were significantly less than baseline.After two and four weeks of using facial cream ① and four weeks of using facial cream ②,the transepithelial water loss (TEWL) and blood speed were significantly lower than baseline.The stratum comeum hydration of both groups after using for two and four weeks were significantly higher than baseline,and the neural sensitivity of more than 30％ of subjects were ameliorated.The total sensory score of lactic acid test of both groups after using for four weeks and the sting score of facial cream ① were significantly decreased.Conclusion By integrating single use sensory test,and long-term using test combined with objective measurements and lactic acid tests,we could better understand the skin sensory,reactions,tolerance and physiology to the use of sensitive skin cosmetics,in which way could comprehensively and scientifically evaluate the applicability of sensitive skin cosmetics.