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WATER WAVE REFRACTION WITH NON-LINEAR THEORY.

机译:具有非线性理论的水波折射。

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摘要

Two different kinds of wave refraction models are formulated in the present study using Stokes' third order wave theory. One type of model is utilized in a parametric study employing several different topographies. Wave trajectories obtained from this model, when obtained by using first and third order wave theory with and without the consideration of energy dissipation, show considerable differences. These differences are examined in more detail for a bottom of constant slope: (1) An approximate 10% difference occurs between the refraction coefficients obtained using the first and the third order wave theory. (2) Considerably different ray trajectories are detected for a high wave steepness, and for a large incident angle due to intensive energy dissipation. (3) The refraction coefficient is found to decrease as the sea floor gets steeper. (4) The wave propagation directions, occurring near the wave breaking point, are found to be sensitive to both the wave steepness and incident angle. (5) Changes in wave breaking depth due to wave refraction and energy dissipation show that the waves of large incident angle and of higher frequencies break in shallower water.;The second type of model uses power refraction theory; this provides a new approach for spectral transformation in shallow water. For this model, the deep water spectrum is supplied as an initial condition. This spectrum is then dissasembled to component waves of individual wave height. The power transmitting line at a given water depth is determined by taking a vector sum of the powers of all the component waves, which have been exposed to refraction and energy dissipation. The spectra along this line of power flow are back calculated using these wave components. The spectra obtained from the above method are then compared to spectra from Hasselmann and Collins' model and remote sensing data. The model gives a reasonable result for relatively deeper water, but it does not reproduce the real conditions encountered by the irregular ocean floor region in which the water depth is very shallow. This disagreement seems to be caused mainly by the dissipation rate functions used in this model. Development of a new dissipation rate function is necessary for a better application of this model to shallow water region.
机译:本研究使用斯托克斯的三阶波理论建立了两种不同的波折射模型。一种类型的模型用于采用几种不同地形的参数研究中。当通过使用一阶和三阶波理论在不考虑能量耗散的情况下获得时,从该模型获得的波轨迹显示出相当大的差异。对于恒定斜率的底部,将更详细地检查这些差异:(1)使用一阶和三阶波动理论获得的折射率之间大约有10%的差异。 (2)由于强烈的能量耗散,对于高的波陡度和大的入射角,检测到相当不同的射线轨迹。 (3)发现随着海床变陡,折射率降低。 (4)发现在波折点附近出现的波传播方向对波陡度和入射角均敏感。 (5)由于波折射和能量耗散引起的波破碎深度的变化表明,入射角大,频率高的波在浅水中破碎。这为浅水光谱转换提供了一种新方法。对于此模型,将提供深水光谱作为初始条件。然后将该光谱分解为单个波高的分量波。给定水深处的输电线路是通过对所有分量波的功率进行矢量求和来确定的,这些分量波的功率已经受到折射和能量耗散。使用这些波分量可以反算出沿着这条潮流线的频谱。然后将通过上述方法获得的光谱与Hasselmann和Collins模型以及遥感数据的光谱进行比较。该模型对相对较深的水给出了合理的结果,但它没有再现水深很浅的不规则海床区域所遇到的实际条件。这种分歧似乎主要是由该模型中使用的耗散率函数引起的。为使该模型更好地应用于浅水区,必须开发新的耗散率函数。

著录项

  • 作者

    OH, IM SANG.;

  • 作者单位

    Old Dominion University.;

  • 授予单位 Old Dominion University.;
  • 学科 Ocean engineering.
  • 学位 Ph.D.
  • 年度 1981
  • 页码 192 p.
  • 总页数 192
  • 原文格式 PDF
  • 正文语种 eng
  • 中图分类 古生物学;
  • 关键词

  • 入库时间 2022-08-17 11:51:30

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