This work research used the blended raw materials of silk and cashmere to spin 36.4texspun sillc/cashmere 85/15 rotor spun yarn. It is one of the examples spinning non-cotton rotorspun yarns. The sliver was made by short-fiber length 15-20mm, which could not be used by using common practice of spinning. Yam made from Spun Silk/cashmere blends are suited for avariety of woven and knitted textiles products. The production of yarn on the rotor spinningmachine is affected by many factors: related to the raw material, machine setting and processingparameters. Some are critical like raw material and its preparations, navel, rotor parameters andspeed, opening roller parameters and speed, twist index and others. Navel as the key element for guiding the yarn and inserting false twist merit the level ofattention devoted to them. An increase in performance is limited by the mechanical and thermalstress that the fiber raw material can withstand, as well as the fiber characteristics. The openingroller, which is one of the three most important items in the OE Rotor Spinning system,influences yam quality and spinning performance. In addition to the raw materials, roller speedand type are critical. Rotor speed has a significant influence on wrapper fiber formation and yarn characteristics.In general, increasing rotor speed deteriorates yarn quality when all else held constant. However,high rotor speed can be run with the appropriate rotor, transport channel design, and raw materialselections. An increase in opening roller speed generally causes more dust formation, more fiber damage, reduced yarn strength and less yarn elongation upon breakage. On the other hand, highspeed also causes better sliver opening, better trash extraction, improved Uster yarn CV valuesand fewer imperfections. Twist multiplier increases the strength of the yarns by creating lateral forces which prevents thefibers in the yarn from slipping over one another. These forces bring the fibers closer this makesthe yam more compact. High twist level increases the insertion time. This is because twistreduces the diameter of the yam and makes the yarn surface smoother. The propulsive forcedecreases with a decrease in the diameter. Also, smoother surface reduces the friction betweenthe yarn surface and the air. As a result, basically yarns with low twist have longer velocities andhigh weft drag. According to the test result of yam quality parameters and performance during this process,optimum selection of types and specification of opening roller and navel was made by using theanalysis method of combining fuzzy decision-making and fuzzy pattern classification. Then, wepredicted the quality parameters of 36.4tex spun silk/cashmere 85/15 rotor spun yam by usingneuro-fizzy system. Finally, in order to obtain the optimum values in rotor speed, opening rollerspeed, and twist factor, the universal rotated experimental designs was done. With the experiment and analysis of different methods, the following results were obtained: 1. To spin 36.4 Tex spun silk/cashmere 85/15 rotor spun yarn. 2. The best combination of technological components was pin roller type of opening rollercombined with the spiral grooved ceramic navel. 3. From the speeds of rotor and opening roller, neuro-fuzry system was able to predict thequality properties of 36.4tex spun silk/cashmere 85/15 rotor spun yarn. A combination of low orhigh rotor speed and high opening roller speed can be used to produce the best values of this yam. 4. Rotor speed has the largest effect to reduce the yarn hairiness value and to increase theCV of yarn count value, yarn neps, thin places, thick place and CV of yarn elongation. Openingroller speed has the largest effect to increase the CV of yarn tenacity and to reduce the yarnelongation. The Twist Multiplier (TM) has the strongest effect on the yarn tenacity. 5. Low value of rotor speed and high value of opening roller speed and TM can be used toproduce the optimum values of this yarn.The optimum condition for rotor speed, opening roller speed and twist factor were 36246rpm,7336rpm, and 473 respectively. The yam produced by using the optimum parameters has a good quality.
展开▼
