DRIVING INNOVATION IN WOOL TEXTILES

摘要

Australian Wool Innovation has identified eight programs that reflect key drivers for wool innovation over the next five years and beyond. They are designed to provide a balance of market-driven and technology-push approaches for achieving R&D outcomes that will preference and benefit Australian wool. A market-driven approach is crucial to ensure that a continuing stream of fabric and product innovations, particularly for apparel, are delivered to defend existing wool markets and to build new and more diverse markets for wool. Technology-push positions wool at the frontiers of fibre and textile research and can lead to the major breakthroughs that pave the way for new wool platform technologies. Innovation in the processing of wool is critical for improving the cost competitiveness of wool. The eight programs will be • elucidated with current projects and strategies to achieve program outcomes. The global market for fibres has tripled in 40 years due to the increase in population and new uses for fibres. Synthetics have accounted for most of the growth. The amount of wool used has changed little in quantity over this period, but its market share of total fibre use has fallen from about 10 per cent in 1960 to about 2.5 per cent in 2002. Australian wool is predominantly Merino wool destined for world clothing markets ( < 16 ～24 micron). This reflects both the adaptability of Merino sheep to Australia''s many production environments and the higher value of finer Merino wool. The market picture is challenging for wool and for other fibres. The consumer market for textiles has slowed in developed and developing countries. This is an expected longer term direction. Consumer spending is moving from clothing towards housing, transport and education. Consumers and retailers want better value from apparel in terms of price and quality. New synthetics are competing on performance and cost points. Woolmark 2005, an extensive survey of four key markets (USA, Europe, developed and developing Asia) forward to 2005, examined consumer purchasing, lifestyles, retail change and competitor fibre inventions. The survey results show clear messages being sent by consumers, retailers and designers to woolgrowers and pipeline businesses. This has an impact for wool R&D decision-making.