ON THE SEQUENCE OF LARGE WAVES FROM FIELD DATA

摘要

The present work focuses on large wave groups, in particular the succession of three waves, i.e. the largest one and the preceding and following ones, in presence of bimodal spectra. Results highlight that the profile is influenced by the dominant component, in the case of swell or wind sea dominated fields. In general, troughs amplitudes attain larger values than crests amplitudes when considering the waves preceding and following the largest crest. Moreover, the average profile of the three largest waves is generally symmetric about the central crest. The spectrum influences the largest waves in a wave group, in particular the greater the wind sea energy, compared to the swells energy content, the bigger the crests and troughs amplitudes of the preceding and following wave.