The softness of cashmere raw materials and cashmere textiles

摘要

Recent studies evaluating the physical attributes of raw cashmere, dehaired cashmere, cashmere tops and cashmere knitwear are summarised. Commercial lots of cashmere from different Origins showed important variations in fiber attributes including fiber curvature and resistance to compression, fiber diameter and fiber length. Cashmere softness was related to fiber curvature. Cashmere fiber crimp frequency, a fundamental property of cashmere fiber, can be easily measured using the objective fiber curvature measurement. Cashmere fiber curvature is significantly affected by the nutritional management of goats. Cashmere samples tested from new Origins such as Australia were softer and longer than samples tested from traditional Origins of cashmere. Increasing the content of cashmere in a wool/cashmere blended knitted fabric generally resulted in a change in the measured fabric attribute in the direction of pure cashmere fabric. Knitted fabric made from worsted spun cashmere were more compressible (softer) and more resistant to pilling and appearance change than those made from superfine wool despite the cashmere yarns being hairier.