ANALYSIS OF THE EFFECT OF WOOD PULP VARIATION AND DIFFERENT ENZYME FINISH CONDITIONS ON THE TEXTILES MADE OF LYOCELL FIBERS

摘要

In the textile industry viewpoint,the closing of the twentieth century was marked by the development of synthetic cellulosic fiber named lyocell,the production of which has broken the thirty years of hibernation after the development of high performance aramid fibers.The most remarkable attribute of lyocell fiber is that it is environment friendly since it is derived from natural cellulose like rayon but the production involves direct dissolution of wood pulp with non-toxic spinning atmosphere and over 98% recycling of spinning solvent.1,2 For modern consumers lyocell provides both comfort and function with its excellent drapability and strength.One of the major characteristics of lyocell fiber is its potential to fibrillate under wet abrasive condition.Although this characteristic can be a drawback to fabric care standpoint,some of the recent developments utilized this characteristic to produce typical lyocell fabrics with peachskin texture and loft hand.3,4 Currently,lyocell fiber is produced in several nations and each brand exhibits unique characteristics with the adjustment of slight variations in production procedures.The variability in lyocell fibers in both functional and aesthetic characteristics may rise at any point in production procedure,i.e.type of wood pulp,solvent spinning conditions,method of reducing primary fibrillation,and method of inducing an even distribution of short secondary fibrillation for peachskin texture.Among many variables which may affect the quality and the characteristics of lyocell fabrics,this study is interested in surveying the effect of using different types of wood pulp and enzyme finish conditions on the physical characteristics and the fabric hand values measured by the Kawabata evaluation system for fabrics (KES-FB).