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Infragravity-wave Dominance at Sea-Dikes fronted by Very and Extremely Shallow Foreshores

机译:海堤的Intravavity-Live主导地位非常浅的前浅滩

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While the significance of infragravity waves (IG) in many—oftenhazardous—nearshore processes is widely-recognized, many of theempirical and numerical models used in dike safety assessments do not(directly) consider their contribution. Here, we combine physical andnumerical modelling to better understand the factors that contribute tothe dominance of IG waves over higher-frequency waves at the dike toe.Findings show that IG-wave dominance increases as the ratio of localwater depth to offshore significant wave height decreases. Therefore, itis critical that any tool used to assess the safety of dikes fronted by veryand extremely shallow foreshores accurately describe IG-wavedynamics.
机译:虽然Intravavity Waves(Ig)在许多常见的中的意义 - 近岸进程被广泛认可,许多堤防安全评估中使用的实证和数值模型不会(直接)考虑他们的贡献。在这里,我们结合了物理和数字建模以更好地理解有助于的因素IG波在堤防脚趾上的高频波的主导地位。调查结果表明,IG波的优势随着当地的比例而增加水深到海上显着波浪高度减小。因此,它任何用于评估堤防安全的工具都是至关重要的非常浅的留言精确描述IG-Wave动力学。

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