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Shoaling of long water waves by its interaction with a submerged breakwater of wavy surfaces

机译:利用其与波浪表面淹没防堤的相互作用的长水挥发

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In this work, we analyze the shoaling of linear long water waves generated by a submerged breakwater composed of wavy surfaces. The undulating surfaces are described by sinusoidal profiles. The mathematical model is expressed in its dimensionless version. The effects of two different geometric parameters - the amplitude of the wavy surfaces and the submerged length of the breakwater - on the free surface elevation is analyzed. The wavy surfaces of the breakwater generate larger values of the wave amplitude than those obtained for breakwaters with flat surfaces. The asymptotic solution is compared with a numerical solution and the results are in good agreement. The results are presented for breakwaters with number of undulations of m = n(= 1, 3). The present theory provides basis for comparison with other approximate theories based on shallow water flows and serves as a prelude to characterize submerged breakwaters of undulating surfaces.
机译:在这项工作中,我们分析了由波状表面组成的浸没式防堤产生的线性长水波的俯冲。起伏表面由正弦谱描述。数学模型在其无量纲版本中表达。两种不同几何参数的效果 - 分析了波浪表面的幅度和防堤 - 在自由表面升高上的浸没长度。防堤的波浪表面会产生比具有平坦表面的破碎器获得的波浪幅度的更大值。将渐近溶液与数值溶液进行比较,结果非常一致。结果显示出具有M = N的下波(= 1,3)的破坏者的破解器。本理论为与基于浅水流动的其他近似理论进行比较,并用作表征起伏表面的浸湿性断裂的前缘。

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