首页> 外文会议>International Conference on Coastal Engineering 2004 vol.1 >TRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES AND WAVE GROUPS DUE TO BREAKING AND NONLINEAR PROCESSES
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TRANSFORMATION OF IRREGULAR WAVES AND WAVE GROUPS DUE TO BREAKING AND NONLINEAR PROCESSES

机译:断裂和非线性过程引起的不规则波和波组的转换

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On a basis of field and numerical experiments the evolution of irregular waves with group structure from deep to shallow water are studied. It has been found that on deep water the wave group structure is determined by non-linear properties of waves and looks as automodel process. The non-linear processes are the basic reason of degradation of wave group structure towards to the shore. That is determined by non-linear reorganisation of a wave spectrum in the frequency band of the first harmonics and filling intervals between wave groups of the first harmonics by wave groups of highest harmonics. Wave breaking does not influence directly on wave group structure change. It is revealed three types of dependencies of energy dissipation on frequency during wave breaking: uniform (in outer part of surf zone), square and selective (in inner part of surf zone), which one is determined by asymmetry of waves and bed slope. It is established, that the energy dissipation of breaking waves compensates processes of linear and nonlinear transformations of waves.
机译:在基础上和数值实验的基础上,研究了从深处到浅水深处与煤层结构的不规则波的演变。已经发现,在深水上,波组结构由波的非线性特性确定,并视为自动仪器过程。非线性过程是波组结构朝向岸的劣化的基本原因。这是由在第一个谐波的频带中的波谱的非线性重组确定,并通过最高谐波的波组的第一谐波的波组之间的填充间隔。波浪断裂不会直接影响波组结构变化。在波断裂期间揭示了三种类型的能量耗散的依赖性:均匀(冲浪区的外部),方形和选择性(在冲浪区的内部),该频率由波浪和床斜率的不对称确定。建立的是,断裂波的能量耗散补偿了波的线性和非线性变换的过程。

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