VELOCITY MEASUREMENTS UNDER BROKEN WAVES AND BORES

摘要

The wave dynamics after breaking is widely investigated also because it controls several phenomena in the surf zone and in the swash zone. Measurements are difficult because of the complex and multi-phase structure of the flow. In order to overcome the limitation of the traditional techniques, a set of experiments were carried out in a flume using Doppler Ultrasonic Technique for fluid velocity measurements. The data have been analysed to obtain the fluid velocity at different phase, the mean fluid velocity and bottom stress. Also classical LDA data were collected and analysed using the Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT).