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INTERMITTENT HIGH SAND CONCENTRATIONS MEASURED UNDER IRREGULAR BREAKING WAVES

机译:在不规则断裂波下测量的间歇高砂浓度

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A laboratory experiment was conducted in a wave flume to observe and measure sand suspension events under shoaling waves on a rippled bed and under breaking waves and bores on an equilibrium terraced beach consisting of fine sand. The same irregular waves were generated for 37 tests to measure the three-dimensional velocities and concentrations at several elevations above the local bed at five cross-shore locations. The measured alongshore velocity is shown to be about 20% of the cross-shore velocity and an effective proxy for detecting three-dimensional vortices and turbulence near the rippled bed and inside the surf zone. The spectra of the alongshore velocities inside the surf zone were dominated by low frequency components associated with intermittent irregular wave breaking. The measured sand concentrations were dominated by intermittent suspension events accompanied by large fluctuating alongshore velocities. Intermittent suspension events occurred under the steep fronts of breaking waves with large fluid accelerations. Strong plunging breakers occurring intermittently caused very intense suspension events lasting at least several seconds. Moderate suspension events were also observed under uprushing bores. The time-averaged sand fluxes on the equilibrium beach calculated from the measured time series were relatively small and not accurate enough to explain the equilibrium profile.
机译:在波状床上进行了实验室实验,观察和测量在波纹床上的浅层波浪下的砂悬浮事件,并在由细砂组成的平衡梯形海滩上破碎波和孔。产生相同的不规则波对于37个测试,以测量在五个交叉岸边的当地床上的几个高度下的三维速度和浓度。测量的沿海速度被示出为跨岸速度的约20%和有效代理,用于检测波纹床附近的三维涡流和湍流以及冲浪区内。冲浪区内的沿岸速度的光谱由与间歇不规则波断裂相关的低频分量来支配。测量的砂浓度由间歇悬浮液导致伴随着沿海速度大的波动。间歇悬架事件发生在具有大流体加速的破裂波的陡峭前面。强大的急剧断路器间歇性地引起了至少几秒钟的非常强烈的悬架事件。在挤压孔下也观察到中度悬浮液事件。从测量的时间序列计算的平衡海滩上的时间平均砂通量相对较小,不足以解释均衡曲线。

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