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THE AVERAGE SHAPE OF LARGE WAVES IN THE NORWEGIAN SEA: IS NON-LINEAR PHYSICS IMPORTANT?

机译:挪威海中大波浪的平均形状:非线性物理学重要吗?

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Linear wave theory predicts that in a random sea, the shape of the average wave is given by the scaled autocorrelation function — the "NewWave". However, the gravity wave problem is non-linear. Numerical simulations of waves on deep water have suggested that their average shape can become modified in a number of ways, including the largest wave in a group tending to move to the front of the group through non-linear dispersion. In this paper we examine whether this occurs for waves in the Norwegian Sea. Field data measured from the weather ship Po-larfront is analysed for the period 2000 to 2009. We find that, at this location, the effect of non-linearity is small due to the moderate steepness of the sea-states.
机译:线性波理论预测,在随机海洋中,平均波的形状由比例自相关函数“ NewWave”给出。但是,重力波问题是非线性的。在深水中波浪的数值模拟表明,它们的平均形状可以通过多种方式进行修改,包括一组中最大的波浪,它们倾向于通过非线性弥散移动到该组的前端。在本文中,我们检查了挪威海中的波浪是否会发生这种情况。对从气象船Po-larfront测得的2000年至2009年期间的现场数据进行了分析。我们发现,在此位置,由于海洋状态的中等陡度,非线性的影响很小。

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