Transition from Long-crested to Short-crested Seas by Wind-wave Interaction

摘要

The linear theory of resonant wind-wave interaction developed by Miles (1957) is extended to include nonlinear effects that can explain a transition process from long-crested to short-crested seas. The initial wave field is composed of a single-frequency, unidirectional primary wave that propagates obliquely to the wind direction. It is shown that a nonlinear interaction between wind and an oblique surface wave can generate shorter and shorter oblique waves with increasing obliqueness. Their amplitudes become very large and lead to a multi-directional water wave field that is composed of standing-wave-like patterns.