Nearshore Waves;;A Real-Time Forecast System

摘要

Operational wave models;;maintained by various organizations,routinely meet the requirement for predictions of wave height andassociated parameters at deep water open-ocean locations. However,the nearshore zone is often less well served with information of thisnature. This paper describes how the Met Office and HR Wallingford,have combined an existing software facility with established modellingtechniques to make forecasts of nearshore wave conditions available inreal-time.