Symbolization of Authenticity:Research on Path to Translocal Restaurants'Culture production

摘要

全球化是去地方化,抑或在全新体系中定义新的地方性、凸显地方性,学术界一直存在争论.伴随全球化进程,地方性饮食追逐人口流动跨地方扩展,然而这些跨地方饮食在保持文化原真性和适应本地顾客需求方面挣扎.如何保持原真性,保持何种原真性成为跨地方饮食文化生产的焦点.本文通过对原真性、符号化的相关研究进行梳理,基于理论分析,提出跨地方饮食文化生产的重要路径:原真性的符号化.与此同时,根据理论推衍,阐述了原真性符号化的必然性及其循环过程,旨在为跨地方饮食文化生产提供理论依据和实践指引,同时也有利于理解地方性饮食文化的跨地方传播、创新与发展.%It’s a dispute in academia,whether globalization is the displace process of locality,or the process of redefinition,reproduction and highlighting of locality.On the background of globalization,local food expands translocally with the frequent migration.Translocal restaurants struggle to keep authenticity or meet the demand of nonlocal customers.How to keep authenticity,and to achieve what kind of authenticity is the focus of translocal restaurants’ culture production.This study reviews the literature of authenticity and symbolization,suggests an important path to translocal restaurants’ culture production: symbolization of authenticity.In this study,authenticity means the characteristic of restaurants’ culture perceived by customers from a constructive authenticity view.Symbolization is the process to transform objects into symbols.Symbolized objects are easier to be recognized.Symbolization of authenticity is the realization process to authenticity with clues,such as food,service,décor and atmosphere.Translocal restaurant is ought to be true to itself,and what it say it is,then achieve translocal restaurants’ culture production through the symbolization of authenticity.Meanwhile,this study states the necessity of the symbolization of authenticity and its cycle process.It can provide a theoretical and practical basis for culture production of translocal restaurants,as well as diffusion,innovation,and development of food culture.