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Cross-shore Variability of Infragravity Wave Pressure and Velocities on a Barred Beach

机译:禁止海滩上重力波压力和速度的跨岸变异性

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Field measurements of infragravity wave motions were collected on a natural barred beach with a cross-shore array of co-located pressure sensors and bi-directional current meters extending from the beach face to 5m depth. Cross-shore variations of infragravity pressure and velocity variances are examined in relation to the incident wave energy and the mean alongshore current. During low-energy incident wave conditions, infragravity pressure variances decrease with increasing depth qualitatively consistent with the theoretically predicted unshoaling and trapping of graivty waves. However, during high-energy incident wave conditions, the observed infragravity pressure variances are nearly uniform across the surf zone, suggestign strong scattering effects in a wide surf zone. Strong tidal modulatios of both infragravity velocity variances and the mean longshore current indicate that shear instabilities of the longshore current contribute significantly to the infragravity velocity field.
机译:在天然禁止的海滩上收集重力波运动的现场测量结果,该海滩上有一个跨岸阵列,这些阵列位于同一位置,压力传感器和双向电表从海滩表面延伸到5m深度。研究了超重力压力和速度变化的跨岸变化与入射波能量和平均沿岸电流的关系。在低能入射波条件下,重力重力方差随深度的增加而减小,在质量上与理论上预测的重力波的浅散和捕获一致。但是,在高能入射波条件下,在整个冲浪区观察到的次重力压力变化几乎是均匀的,这表明在较宽的冲浪区中存在强烈的散射效应。基础重力速度变化和平均近岸海流的强潮汐模量表明,基础海洋流速的剪切不稳定性对基础重力速度场有重要贡献。

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