THE INFLUENCE OF REFRACTION AND SHOALING ON WAVE RUN-UP UNDER OBLIQUE WAVES

摘要

In the paper results of basic investigations on wave run-up in oblique waves performed in the wave basin of NRC-CHC (National Research Council -Canadian Hydraulic Centre) are presented. In all tests a smooth 1 on 6 slope of the dike in constant water depth of 0.5 m was used. The wave height was constant H_(m0) = 0.1 m, while using 4 different wave periods (T_P = 1.26 s; 1.46 s; 1.78 s; 2.53 s) for the generated TMA spectra. The angle of wave attack θ ranges from 0° to 40° The directional spreading σ _θ was 0°, 10°, 20° and 30°. The directional function was determined by non-linear regression of wave data measured at the toe of the dike and was calculated as γ_θ = 0.67 cos(θ) + 0.33 both for long crested and short crested waves. Considering refraction and shoaling on the dike up to the breaking area, the directional function proves to be of the cosine type γ_θ = 1.06 cos(θ) - 0.06 ≈ cos(θ) as well for long crested as for the short crested waves.