PROCESS FOR THE PREPARATION OF A PLANT ACTIVE INGREDIENT, IN PARTICULAR MOISTURIZING AND WITH ANTI-WRINKLE EFFECT, ACTIVE INGREDIENT OBTAINED, COMPOSITION AND APPLICATION IN COSMETICS

摘要

Production of a plant-derived active ingredient comprises dispersing watercress powder in an aqueous phase, hydrolyzing the dispersion with one or more enzymes at acidic pH for at least 30 minutes, separating the soluble and insoluble phases, and concentrating the soluble phase. Production of a plant-derived active ingredient comprises dispersing watercress powder in an aqueous phase in an amount of 50-200 g/l, hydrolyzing the dispersion with one or more protease, glucosidase, carbohydrase, amylase and cellulase enzymes at acidic pH for at least 30 minutes, separating the soluble and insoluble phases by decantation, filtration or centrifugation, and concentrating the soluble phase by ultrafiltration, spray drying or freeze drying. Independent claims are also included for: (1) an active ingredient produced as above, with a solids content of 100-180 g/l, a pH of 4.5-6.0, a total sugar content of 45-80 g/l and a uronic acid content of 12-22 g/l; (2) a cosmetic composition containing the active ingredient; (3) cosmetic skin treatment by application of the composition of (2).