Methods and compositions useful for the treatment of Fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin

摘要

Cosmetic method to moisturize, peel, mattify and increase the luminosity of the skin, which comprises administering to the skin of an individual with Fitzpatrick type IV, V or VI skin with oily but dry skin and showing a deficiency in ceramides in stratum corneum, a composition comprising: (a) a wetting agent that replenishes ceramides on the skin surface or stimulates or enhances ceramide production in keratinocytes selected from the group consisting of ceramide 1, 2 or 3; Rosmarinus officinalis extracts, including one or more of the components of Rosmarinus officinalis, such as rosmarinic acid or ursolic acid; niacinamide, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as ascorbic acid esters, and one or more C16-22 fatty acids, hyaluronic acid, wheat germ, barley extract, shea butter and mixtures thereof, and (b ) a desquamation agent selected from the group consisting of acetylglucosamine, Castanea sativa extract, salicylic acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid, maltobionic acid, gluconolactone, Acacia senegal gum, Salix alba (willow) bark extract, yeast extract, glucono-heptolactone, D-mannose-6-phosphate salt, such as sodium or potassium salt, polylysine, Mucur miehei (mushroom) extract, galactoarabinane, lactobionic acid, lupine protein L-serine, salicin, sodium cholesterol sulfate, N -lactoyl phytosphingosine, forskolin, Coleus barbatus extract, ceramide 6B (N- (2- hydroxydecanoyl) phytosphingosine), ceramide 6C (N- (2-hydroxy-octanoyl) phytosphingosine), phytic acid, cysteamine lactate, mandelic acid, acid hydroxylauric and mixtures thereof, and (c) a mattifying agent that reduces sebum production in keratinocytes or exhibits sebum-absorbing properties, selected from the group consisting of silicone elastomer, such as a dimethicone crosspolymer, crosspolymer dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone, Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) fruit extract, Laminaria saccharina extract, NDGA (nordihydroguairetic acid) and mixtures thereof, and (d) an agent that increases the luminosity of the skin selected from group consisting of silica, titanium dioxide coated or not coated with one or more of mica, silica or mixtures thereof, polyvinyl alcohol crosspolymer, fluorescent brighteners, fluorescent glass, disodium diesterylbenzene sulfonate, polidodeca-amide triazadiphenylethenesulfate- amine, mica, boron nitride, nylon-12, nylon-6 and HDI / PPG-polycaprolactone crosspolymer.