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A Nonlinear Theory for the Generation of Water Waves by Wind

机译:风产生水波的非线性理论

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A viscous boundary‐layer flow, first proposed by Lock as a model for the initiation of water waves by wind, is studied. A stability analysis of the flow indicates that the linear instability present is relatively weak. However, under certain conditions, the system can support coalescing normal modes, and thus, direct resonance between such modes is possible. A nonlinear perturbative analysis at direct resonance is performed, and the equation governing the slow temporal evolution of a finite‐amplitude oscillatory disturbance is derived. The appropriate evolution equation is of second order in time. The nonlinear effects are of crucial importance in the development of a resonant disturbance. Comparison of the theoretical predictions with experiments suggests that direct resonance may play a significant role in explaining the observed large initial growth rates of gravity water waves of wavelength longer than about 12
机译:研究了一种粘性边界层流动,该流动首先由Lock提出,作为风引发水波的模型。对流动的稳定性分析表明,存在的线性不稳定性相对较弱。然而,在某些条件下,系统可以支持合并法向模式,因此,这些模式之间的直接谐振是可能的。在直接共振下进行了非线性扰动分析,推导了控制有限振幅振荡扰动缓慢时间演化的方程。适当的演化方程在时间上是二阶的。非线性效应在谐振扰动的发展中至关重要。理论预测与实验的比较表明,直接共振可能在解释观察到的波长大于约12的重力水波的初始增长率方面发挥重要作用

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