Field Observations of Spatial Structure of Hydrodynamics Including Waves and Currents in the Haeundae Coast

摘要

Field observations were conducted to collect hydrodynamic and morphological data,which are needed to account for mechanisms of bathymetry changes caused by physical forcings,in Haeundae beach.In order to quantitatively describe characteristics of wave transformations and current patterns in space in winter and summer,in-situ sensors for measuring waves and current profiles were installed at three locations in the cross-shore direction and also three locations in the along-shore direction.As for the results of wave measurements,waves with main direction from the east dominate in winter while waves are incident from the S and the ESE in summer.Analysis of current data reveals that currents over the study domain are considerably influenced by a pattern of tidal motions,thereby,mainly oscillating in the direction of tidal currents,i.e.,east-west directions,in both winter and summer.Currents tend to be influenced by local bathymetry in the shallow water region,with the direction changed along the depth contours and the magnitude reduced as they approach the shoreline.The results analysed from the hydrodynamic data through this study can be further combined with the morphological and bathymetry data,leading to the quantification of seasonal sediment transport rates and sand budget changes.