In the Yemen, tribesmen in traditional dress, with the jambiya (the giant curved dagger of manhood) in their belts, drive 4 by 4s and own the Kalashnikovs that are now as important a sign of maturity as the dagger. Immemorial customs, like chewing qual leaves (low-grade narcotics that Yemeni men masticate during their evening chats), co-exist with satellite phones and a sort of democratic republic. In ancient times, the place was immensely wealthy, so much so that Augustus scnt an expedition to try to conquer Arabia Felix, which produced much of the world's frankincense and myrrh.
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