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From Circus Seamstress to Flax Farmer: A Grow-Your-Own-Clothes Adventure

机译:从马戏团裁缝到亚麻农民:自己种植衣服的冒险

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摘要

At the start of 2020 I had never touched a spinning wheel. They were objects shrouded in folklore, encountered in fairy tales treadled by witches casting sleeping spells or imps spinning straw into gold. I could never have predicted that in 2022 I would be preparing to write my Masters' dissertation on flax and hemp processing equipment, or that I'd spend a significant part of the last two years on a farm growing, harvesting, processing, spinning and weaving flax into linen! A trip to the haberdashery was always a highlight of my job as a circus seamstress. I would catch the metro from Newcastle out to the warehouse in Palmersville industrial estate and linger in the aisles, imagining acrobats in glittering lycra, velvet jackets for hand-made puppets and dip dyed silk suits. Where the fabrics actually came from was a mystery to me, and it wasn't until I read the book Fibershed by Rebecca Burgess that I fully reckoned with the huge and devastating impact the industrial fashion supply chain has on the environment and the communities that serve it. In her eye-opening book Burgess exposes the harmful practices involved in creating and dyeing our clothes, and instead sets out to only wear natural fibres grown, processed, dyed, spun, woven, knitted and sewn within a 150 mile radius of her Californian home.
机译:2020年初,我从未碰过纺车。它们是笼罩在民间传说中的物体,在童话故事中遇到女巫施放沉睡咒语或小鬼将稻草纺成金子。我从来没有预料到,在2022年,我会准备写一篇关于亚麻和大麻加工设备的硕士论文,或者我会在过去两年的大部分时间里花在农场种植、收获、加工、纺纱和将亚麻编织成亚麻布!去小百货店旅行一直是我作为马戏团裁缝工作的亮点。我会从纽卡斯尔乘地铁到帕默斯维尔工业区的仓库,在过道上徘徊,想象着穿着闪闪发光的莱卡的杂技演员、手工制作的木偶的天鹅绒夹克和浸染丝绸西装。这些面料到底来自哪里对我来说是一个谜,直到我读了丽贝卡·伯吉斯(Rebecca Burgess)的《纤维棚》(Fibershed)一书,我才完全意识到工业时尚供应链对环境和服务于它的社区的巨大和毁灭性影响。在她令人大开眼界的书中,伯吉斯揭露了制作和染色衣服所涉及的有害做法,而是开始只穿着在她加州家半径 150 英里范围内种植、加工、染色、纺纱、编织、针织和缝制的天然纤维。

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