Methodology of designing women's clothing with decoration from different fabrics

摘要

The article presents the results of the development of a methodology for designing women's clothing considering the properties of textile materials. Current collections of women's clothing models offered by leading Fashion houses in recent seasons were analyzed in order to clarify the classification of clothing decoration and the classification of three-dimensional decoration of clothes (ruffles, gatherings, puffs, draperies, etc.) is developed. Also, the physical and mechanical properties of samples of dress fabrics of various raw material composition and weaving are studied, in particular thickness, surface density, drapeability, and rigidity. Using the photogrammetric method, the quality of production of the knot with gathering for different gathering coefficients is evaluated and recommendations on the selection of the gathering coefficient for the knots of garments depending on the physical and mechanical properties of fabrics are provided. It is experimentally proved that thickness and bending rigidity of fabric influence the value of the gathering coefficient in the design of women's clothing. Also, the recommendations on the selection of fabrics for the design of modern women's dresses with decoration are provided.