Objective Evaluation of Seam Pucker Using Artificial Inteligence Part III: Using the Objective Evaluation Method to Analyze the Effects of Sewing Parametera on Seam Pucker

摘要

The new objective evaluation method of seam pucker reported in Parts I and II of this study is used to analyze the effect of sewing parameters on seam pucker with five shape parametes in this part of the series. The parameters of sewing thread tension and stitch length are varied. To measure needle and bobbin thread tensions. frames are midifed with dial tension gauges, linear guides, and weights. Four lightweight synthetic fabrics are used for seam pucker experiments. The needle and a bobbin threads are polyester. These experiments shw that sewing thread tension affects the wave amplitudes on the puckered surface as well as the objective AATCC seam pucker grade, but also no effect on the wave frequency characterized by the number of wave generting points and the wavelengths.