Apparently, the only sound one hears in the night in the remote town of Ilulissat (population 4670) in western Greenland is the baying of huskies-who outnumber residents by two to one-and the distant, uncanny crack of giant slabs of ice as they calve off the enormous retreating Sermeq Kujalleq glacier to float free into the Ilulissat Icef jord and out to sea.
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