Every day, regular as clockwork, the bottlenose dolphins of Shark Bay swim to the shallows to be hand fed and beamed at by a gaggle of tourists. Meeting them was to be the highlight of my trip around Australia. I was expecting to commune with nature. Instead, I got a rude awakening. As dolphin after dolphin swam past my legs, excitement overcame me and - against the orders of the ranger on duty -I chanced a stroke. In response, I got a flick of the tail so hard it gave me a dead arm. I looked at the dolphin. Black eyes glared back at me. "She's telling you 'no'," said the ranger with barely concealed fury.
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