Experimental Study on Wave Motions behind Submerged Breakwater with Random Waves

摘要

In order ot study the wave field behind the submerged break-water, we conducted wave tank experiment using several random waves. The water surface oscillations were measured along the wave flume wiht spatial interval of 10cm using wave gauges, and the horizontal velocity at the bottom (2cm upward from the bottom) were measured with spatial interval of 20cm using an Acoustic Doppler Velocimeter (ADV). From these time series data, mean water level, steady flow velocity at the bottom, skewness and atitness of wave profiles of the water surface oscillation and the bottom velocity oscillation were calculated. Time series data at each station were also decomposed to Fourier components with FFT analysis. The spatial change of spectra for random waves were also calculated.